According to research published in Advanced Materials, scientists in South Korea have successfully recreated sea silk, a legendary golden fabric once reserved for emperors and popes in the ancient world. The breakthrough was led by researchers at POSTECH and the Environmental Research Institute, who not only reproduced the long-lost textile but also uncovered the scientific reason behind its remarkable golden glow that has endured for millennia.
Sea silk, often called the “golden fiber of the sea,” was one of the most prized luxury materials of the Roman era. Made from byssus threads secreted by the Mediterranean clam Pinna nobilis, the fabric was famous for its shimmering gold appearance, lightness, and strength. Over time, however, pollution and environmental damage pushed the clam close to extinction, leading to a complete ban on harvesting it in the European Union. As a result, sea silk faded into legend, surviving only in historical texts and a handful of priceless relics.
To bring the material back without harming endangered species, the Korean research team turned to Atrina pectinata, a pen shell commonly farmed for food in Korean waters. Like its Mediterranean counterpart, this species produces byssus threads to anchor itself. The researchers found that these threads closely match the physical and chemical properties of ancient sea silk, allowing them to recreate the fabric using a sustainable and legally accessible source.
The team also solved a long-standing mystery surrounding sea silk’s color. Unlike most textiles, its golden hue does not come from dyes or pigments. Instead, it is produced through structural coloration. At the nanoscale, spherical protein structures called photonins form layered arrangements that reflect light in a way that creates a luminous gold appearance. Because the color comes from structure rather than chemicals, it does not fade over time.
The researchers discovered that the brightness of the gold depends on how orderly these protein layers are. The more precise the structure, the richer the color becomes. This explains how ancient sea silk garments were able to retain their brilliance for centuries, even thousands of years.
Beyond cultural restoration, the work has modern implications. The byssus threads used in the study were previously treated as marine waste. Turning them into high-value textiles opens the door to sustainable luxury materials that require no dyes or metals and generate minimal environmental impact.
The revival of sea silk shows how ancient craftsmanship and modern materials science can intersect, bringing a lost symbol of power and beauty back into the present.
